As spring bleeds into summer, Boulder’s trails become popular as ever with hikers and trail runners. Chautauqua in particular can seem swarmed, and finding parking can be a challenge before you even hit the trail. The crowds tend to stick to the front side of the Flatirons, however. Those in the know (you) head to the back side and the gem that is Walker Ranch, part of the Boulder County open space system.
The ranch started back in 1882, when James and Phoebe Walker applied to homestead on 160 acres of meadow near a spring. Their self-sufficient ranch eventually included a farmhouse, root cellar, granary, smokehouse, springhouse, chicken and turkey houses, wagon barn, corn storage, pig barn, and fenced corrals and pastures. Those buildings are still standing (though off limits to the public except on special occasions), are being methodically restored by the county, and are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Over time, the Walker family expanded their ranch until it encompassed a staggering 6,000 acres in 1959. The property is a picturesque blend of habitats: Ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, aspen groves, open meadows, streams and creeks. Coyote, deer, black bear and mountain lions are not uncommon.
Starting in 1976, Boulder County began acquiring portions of the ranch, and those holdings now total 2,566 acres (plus an additional 1,212 acres leased from the Bureau of Land Management). For trail runners today, that amounts to 3,778 acres of backcountry, with more than 12 miles of trails to explore. Of those 12 miles, the Walker Ranch Loop offers an enticing 7.8 mile trail run, with a series of alternating ascents and descents.
You have options for how to engage the loop. It can be run clockwise or counterclockwise. Similarly, you can start at one of three trailheads: the Walker Ranch Loop Trailhead, Ethel Harrold Picnic Area and Trailhead, or the Crescent Meadows Parking Lot. My favorite method of engagement to start and end at the Walker Ranch Loop Trailhead, and to run the loop counterclockwise, which is how it is described:
From the trailhead, begin running immediately downhill into Tom Davis Gulch, with views to the south of exposed granite slabs and the recovering hillsides that burned over in the Eldorado Fire of September 15, 2000. At the bottom of the gulch, you’ll meet up with South Boulder Creek, where the trail turns southwest and follows the northern shoreline until you cross the creek and begin the first ascent.
From South Boulder Creek, the trail climbs steadily, passing near the Rio Grande Railroad grade (you’ll see trains at the right time of day), and crossing into Eldorado Canyon State Park. At the Crescent Meadows Parking Lot, turn left (east) to stay on the Loop trail. Here the trail undulates as it weaves through meadows and forests, ducking in and out of small side drainages. At one point, the trail splits (with well-marked signs indicating easier and harder options). As a trail runner, either option works equally well, and merges back into the same trail just a short distance beyond.
Then begins the next descent: a steep drop back to South Boulder Creek. It feels much more like a tight canyon here. Watch your footing on the stone and log steps that bring you to the bottom. Then cross South Boulder Creek on a broad bridge. The final ascent then begins.
Bypass a connector trail (on your right) that leads to Eldorado Canyon, and instead stay on the main trail, which at this point has widened to a dirt road. The trail climbs gradually for three quarters of a mile. Keep an eye out for a trail on your left – this is the continuation of the Walker Ranch Loop. Staying straight on the ascent will eventually deposit you at the Ethel Harrold Trailhead.
After turning left to remain on the Loop trail, the route weaves through a tight, forested valley before beginning a series of switchbacks. Those switchbacks deposit you on a ridge at 7,200 feet with great views. The worst is behind you at this point. From here, the trail contours west, primarily staying flat or descending gently. As you round a bend, the trailhead will come into sight, and you can open up your stride to the finish.
Directions: From Boulder, drive west on Baseline Road, passing Chautauqua Park and the Flatirons. Baseline Road becomes Flagstaff Road. Continue for 7.5 miles over the top of Flagstaff and behind the backside of Green Mountain. End at the Walker Ranch Loop Trailhead. Alternatively, one quarter mile before reaching the Walker Ranch Loop Trailhead, turn left onto Pika Road, and then right onto Bison Road. Park at the Ethel Harrold Picnic Area and Trailhead. You can also drive to Eldorado Canyon State Park, and park at the Crescent Meadows Parking Lot in the upper end of the park.
Peter Bronski (www.peterbronski.com) is an award-winning writer and avid trail runner from Boulder, CO. His last article for Colorado Runner was about trail running on Kokopelli’s Trail near Fruita.